The Baltimore Sun chimes in on the never-ending debate on how best to mix and chill one's martini. Turns out it's as much a sizzle-versus-steak argument as it is about anything substantial in re the actual finished product.
"When I was in Tokyo, I liked the way Japanese bartenders would shake martinis," says David Myers, owner of Sona in Hollywood and Comme Ca in West Hollywood, Calif., "but Sammy [consulting bartender Sam Ross] has converted me. He says stirring blends the alcohols better. Instead of a rapid shake, which emulsifies, there's just a delicate blending."
Oh, those crazy Japanese can make anything look enticing. But you'll come back. They always come back for Sammy's special silver stirrin' spoon!
Personally, I'm not refined enough to have an opinion. (The concept of "bruising the gin" seems a bit precious, though I can certainly respect that there is a certain alchemy to the thing.) Frankly, that damned spy ruined this discussion for me, and I no longer can even muster up the spite necessary to ask for it stirred, not shaken. I trust my bartender to do what they deem to be best, and like getting a haircut, if I don't like it, I'll try something else or go somewhere else. Or I'll do it myself until I get it right, temporary uglinesses be damned.
Tell me I'm wrong, call me a cretin, I understand. If you have a preference (or even better, a reason for that preference), I'd love to hear it.
The whole bruising argument is undoubtedly nonsense, but shaking a Martini really aerates it, ruining the silky smooth elegance that for me makes a Martini.
Posted by: Jay Hepburn | January 17, 2008 at 02:36 PM
Talk of "bruising the gin" from someone with a straight face usually alerts you to the reality that you're dealing with a nincompoop.
I tend to go with the CW on this one -- drinks that are solely alcohol, with no juices or anything else get shaken, everything else gets stirred. One important thing worth noting, though, is that most bartenders don't shake OR stir long enough to get the cocktails truly good and cold...and when stirring, one must stir for longer than one would shake in order to get it to the proper glacial temp.
Posted by: Vidiot | January 17, 2008 at 05:49 PM
Now see, this is the kind of insight I was hoping for!
Seriously, that's why I read this blog.
Posted by: Tony H | January 17, 2008 at 06:22 PM